Some journeys aren’t planned — they’re felt. They start with a message from a friend, a free weekend, and that quiet pull of the mountains. That’s how this one began — a spontaneous plan that turned into one of the most peaceful adventures of my life: the Bankatiya Base Camp trek in Uttarakhand’s legendary Johar Valley.

Day 1 (Friday): Haldwani to Bageshwar – The Warm Start

The story started from Haldwani, where I met Rahul — my companion from the Pindari Glacier trek. We packed our gear, turned on the playlist, and hit the road through Someshwar. By evening, we reached Bageshwar and stayed at our friend Mrigank’s house. His home became our base for the night — simple, warm, and perfect.

That night, I balanced between closing PBIs for work and packing my trekking gear. When the laptop finally shut down, the real journey began.

Day 2 (Saturday): Bageshwar to Munsyari – Roads to the Peaks

We left Bageshwar early in the morning. The drive toward Munsyari was the kind that keeps you silent — rivers flowing beside pine-covered slopes, every turn revealing a new landscape. We stopped for lunch at Birthi, where the people were as warm as the food they served.

After crossing nine steep bends, the Panchachuli Peaks appeared through the mist — snow-capped, calm, and majestic. It felt like the mountains were waiting for us.

We reached Tulsi Homestay by evening — a perfect little stay with delicious food and a view of Munsyari’s lights. Later that evening, we explored the market and stumbled upon OneSoulAdventure Café — a cozy place filled with wooden carvings, snacks, and stories. The café owner helped us plan our next day’s route to Bankatiya Base Camp and even shared contacts for shared taxis.

But we decided to take our own car — we wanted to travel at our pace, and besides, the mobile network fades after Lilam.

Day 3 (Sunday): Munsyari to Laspa – Into the Johar Valley

The morning was crisp and cold. We flew our drone from the homestay terrace, capturing the sunrise over the Panchachuli. After breakfast, we packed food, gear, and fuel, and left Munsyari around 9:30 AM.

The road to Laspa is about 50 km long, winding through Lilam. The initial part is decent, but after Lilam, the terrain becomes rough and steep — loose gravel, under-construction roads, and occasional BRO trucks. At one point, we even saw a left-hand drive BRO vehicle — something rare in India.

Not long after, our car hit trouble. A sharp stone had struck the tyre, bending a connected part. The car couldn’t go any further. We parked it carefully along the mountain wall and prepared to continue on foot.

Near our parking spot stood a temporary milestone with “31 km” written on it — not an actual distance from Munsyari, but our only reference. As we walked ahead, the next milestone we saw near Laspa read “42 km.” That’s when we realized we’d walked 11 km by road — fully loaded with our gear.

The route was wild and beautiful — waterfalls spilling across cliffs, mist wrapping around trees, and a faint rainbow glowing above the valley. I was fighting off a cold, my body weak, but the mind kept saying, *“Just a few more steps.”*

By evening, we reached near Laspa village. The BRO and ITBP personnel stationed nearby offered us water and a place to pitch our tent. Two mountain dogs wandered close by, becoming part of our little camp family. We cooked dinner under a sky filled with stars so bright, we didn’t even think about taking pictures. Some memories are meant to be lived, not captured.

Day 4 (Monday): Bankatiya Base Camp – Where the Air Gets Simpler

We woke before sunrise, the cold biting but the excitement higher. After a quick breakfast, we packed light and began our climb toward Bankatiya Base Camp.

Laspa village was silent — houses shuttered with tin sheets and nails, abandoned for the winter. We left our heavy bags near a small mandir and started climbing. Soon, the Bankatiya Peak appeared — first as a shadow, then as a clear outline behind the mist.

The valley was breathtaking. Glacial streams sparkled through the meadows, the air was thin but pure, and the silence — deeper than anything I’d ever felt. We flew our drone, took shots, and simply stood still for a while. The moment felt endless.

We returned to Laspa around 3 PM and set up camp in a protected spot surrounded by rocks. As the sun dipped, we lit a fire to fight the cold. Later, an ITBP patrol stopped by and warned us about a bear spotted near the village — likely the one responsible for an open door we’d seen earlier. They smiled and said, “Good that you lit a fire — it keeps them away.”

The sky clouded over that night, hiding the stars, but the crackle of fire and mountain wind was enough.

Day 5 (Tuesday): The Road Back Feels Different

Morning came softly. We packed up, cleaned the campsite, and began the 11 km walk back to our car near the 31 km mark. By noon, we reached it. The car was dusty but loyal — waiting exactly where we left it.

As we drove back toward Munsyari, the same roads somehow looked different — maybe because we’d changed. Every turn felt familiar, every silence comforting. That’s what the mountains do — they reset you.

What the Trek Taught Me

The mountains don’t test you — they reveal you.

I learned that strength isn’t about how fast you climb, but how long you keep walking. That companionship matters more than comfort. And that high altitude truly makes the air — and life — less complicated.

Quick Trek Summary

• Route: Haldwani → Bageshwar → Munsyari → Lilam → Laspa → Bankatiya Base Camp
• Distance: ~50 km road (11 km walked due to vehicle limit)
• Duration: 5 Days
• Best Season: April–June, September–October
• Nearby Treks: Milam Glacier, Ralam Glacier, Nanda Devi East Base Camp
• Highlight: Silent valley views, glacial streams, and solitude.